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More Than 9 Of The 49 Brands Are Related To Supplier Pollution.

2012/10/15 8:53:00 26

Brand ClothingClothing SuppliersClothing Suppliers PollutionNike

The "eleven" golden holiday is also a major brand.

clothing

The gold sales period, however, behind the bright clothes, who can think of the environmental pollution caused by this?


Recently, friends of nature, public environment research center, Dahl asked, circle friends technology and Nanjing green stone five environmental protection organizations jointly issued second green choices in Beijing.

Spin

The industry research report discloses the environmental performance of 49 textile enterprises and their raw materials suppliers in China. It points out that a large number of large garment brands have significant defects in the environmental management of their supply chain in China.


In response, Wang Jingjing, deputy director of the public environmental research center, told reporters: "in these 49 well-known

Brand clothing

In the enterprise, 47 brand clothing enterprise's suppliers have found the pollution problem, only the suppliers of the two enterprises of Yida and Burberry have not found any pollution problems.


Nearly half brand negative to deal with supplier pollution


A number of environmental protection organizations of the green choice alliance began with 49 Chinese and foreign companies in April 2012.

Clothing brand

Start a dialogue and ask if it knows about the environmental performance of the supply chain, including dyeing and finishing suppliers.

Since then, 30 companies have communicated with NGO.

Since then, the green select alliance has written to 49 brands again in September 25, 2012. As of October 7, 2012, a total of 17 enterprises have responded to this.


According to environmental protection organizations, H&M, NIKE, Yida, WAL-MART, Levi's,

Adidas

The 17 brands such as Burberry, Gap and so on showed a positive overall performance.

In terms of material supplier management, only 6 brands such as NIKE, Yida, Adidas, H&M, Reaves and Burberry have carried out environmental management of dyeing and finishing suppliers, while other brands still need to extend management to this link.


In addition to the above 17 enterprises, there are still 22 negative performance.

Among them, 19 did not make any response, and the 3 only made a perfunctory response.

In the 19 companies that did not respond, including Disney, Polo Ralph Lauren, 31st degree, Kappa, Anta, Messi general merchandise, Armani, Calvin Klein, Carrefour and other businesses and brands.


From the above survey, different brand enterprises have different ways of dealing with the problem of supplier pollution.

"For example

Nike

The supplier of Kaida textile has pollution problems. Nike actively urged Kaida to carry out rectification and launched the third party audit, which is carried out by professional audit companies and supervised by environmental protection organizations.

Finally, some reforms were made.

Wang Jingjing told reporters.


However, according to Wang Jingjing, although there are some reforms in Kaida, there is still not enough intensity to reform, and more brands are needed to supervise Kaida rectification.

"Kay is also a supplier of 31st degree, but it is not as positive as Nike. The company has not responded to environmental protection."


In addition to not responding to such a blind attitude, other brands have taken a passive approach.

According to environmental protection organizations, Martha, the largest multinational retail group in the UK, has replied that it is possible to solve these requests (questions in the environmental protection organization's letter).

However, the environmental protection organization's investigation said that Martha's department store supplier of Qing Mao textile printing and dyeing Co., Ltd. still had pollution problems.


"At present, the main reason for the rectification of polluting enterprises is that there is no motivation, and the power of rectification depends on the supply of brand suppliers."

Wang Jingjing said.


Pollution seriously damages health


According to statistics, the total amount of dyeing and finishing wastewater in 5 provinces of Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Shandong, Guangdong and Fujian accounts for 90% of the total amount of dyeing and finishing wastewater discharge in China.


In the field investigation of environmental protection organizations, according to Martha, a supplier of Qing Mao textile printing and dyeing Co. Ltd., adjacent to the village of Dou Tang Village, "every day there are smelly taste". "When the flavor is heavy, many children will have nosebleeds and dizziness."


Without being personally involved, it is hard to imagine the taste described by villagers.

Reporters have experienced the power of this flavor close.

In May this year, a reporter investigated the pollution problem of a large distributing center in a fabric processing factory in Fujian. During the investigation, it passed through a village with many textile factories.

Although the reporter knows that the clothes need to be added to the chemical, it has been smoked by the pungent smell in a few seconds passing through the door after a house with two finishing machines, which continues until the evening.

It can be seen that this odor is of great power.


According to local environmental protection personnel, there is always a small workshop type family production mode in the local village, which is usually directly discharged.


Ma Jun, director of the public environment research center, pointed out to reporters that "no treated sewage, its harmful substances will directly affect the environment.

After treatment, some of the harmful substances will be disposed of, which will have little impact on the environment, even if some of the harmful substances that have not been disposed of will be greatly reduced due to processing.


According to Ma Jun, traditional printing and dyeing processes produce a large amount of toxic sewage. After processing, some toxic dyes or processing aids on the waste water have a direct impact on human health.

Such as azo dyes, formaldehyde, fluorescent whitening agents and softeners are allergenic; polyvinyl alcohol and polypropylene size are not easily biodegradable; chlorine bleaching agents are heavily polluted; some aromatic amine dyes are carcinogenic; dyes are harmful to heavy metals; formaldehyde containing various finishing agents and printing auxiliaries are toxic to human body.


Low cost of pollution


In China, due to the weak environmental supervision and the difficulty of environmental litigation, the illegal cost is lower than the law-abiding cost, and the price of water and other resources is low, which results in the lack of energy saving and pollution reducing power for dyeing and finishing enterprises.


Ma Jun thinks: "there is a big problem, that is, the low proportion of reuse of waste water is mainly due to limited profits and no motivation for enterprises.

The two links, printing and dyeing and finishing, account for 80% of the textile industry wastewater and 12% of chemical fiber production. This shows that the proportion of low added value accounts for a higher proportion. In this way, enterprises have adopted the least cost way to pursue profits.


At present, the low price of water in our country makes it easier for enterprises to use new tap water and do not use circulating waste water, mainly because the new water is much cheaper than using circulating wastewater.

With the environmental protection department evaluation, China's energy and resource utilization efficiency is 2 times lower than that of the developed countries.


"In addition to the price of water, there is also the reason for the low penalty.

The general penalty is not more than 100 thousand yuan, the highest is 200 thousand yuan. For some large companies, a few days of stealing can save the fine.

As a result, only a few penalties in a year are not much for the company. "

Ma Jun said so.


Environmental organizations believe that in the face of such a situation, the Chinese government needs to strengthen supervision, and the Chinese society needs to strengthen supervision. The international and domestic famous brands that purchase large quantities of products from these dyeing and finishing enterprises are also responsible for strengthening the environmental management of suppliers and avoiding the damage caused by their outsourcing production to China's environment and communities.

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